Northguard Peak, Mt. Brewer and Southguard Peak from Lake 11,200 feet (Arnot Lake)

Sequoia National Park:  Pear Lake to Tableland’s Lake 11,200

 

In search of off-trail solitude, open space and second-to-none views?  This jaunt in the Southern Sierra fits the bill.  The goal is Lake 11,200, a tiny lake (or massive tarn?) embedded in a ridge overlooking Upper Big Bird Lakes, with sweeping views (North to South, or left to right) of Mt. Francis Farquhar, Northguard Peak, Mt. Brewer, Southguard Peak, Thunder Mountain, Table Mountain, Midway Mountain, Milestone Mountain, Triple Divide Peak, and the amiable but semi-brooding Kaweah Peaks.

Foregrounding the aforementioned peaks is Glacier Ridge, possibly the least visited place in the Sierra Nevada.  Phil Arnot, author of “High Sierra – John Muir’s Range of Light”, the bible for backpackers who avoid online backpacker forums – unless, of course, one needs to know the optimal tortilla circumference for bear canisters -- describes Glacier Ridge as “untrailed, untraveled and almost entirely unadulterated.”  (When I look at Glacier Ridge I’m reminded of my father’s famous “I like people.  I just don’t like being around them!”). 

Lake 11,200 affords campsites with views of the Great Western Divide (in its entirety!).  Take your pick on the east side.  The water is clean, swimmable and algae free.  There are numerous natural shelters in the rocks, though a thunder storm may forge a smidge of consternation. (Thunder and Lightning? Leave now!).   The lake (heretofore designated “Arnot Lake”) is an ideal multi-night spot, allowing day-trip exploration of Big Bird Lake, Moose Lake and all of the Tablelands. 

Accessing Arnot Lake from Wolverton can be done in one day, but only if you are stupid. I suggest 2 days to cover the 10 miles and 3,700 foot gain, from Wolverton.  On day 1, get yourself to Pear Lake, beautifully situated below Alta Peak.  It is an outpost for innumerable backpackers.  Most spend their time at Pear Lake and go no further.  While there, they discuss tortilla size radius and other important matters addressed in online forums.  My last Pear Lake foray included shushing backpackers who were blasting music during alpine glow, and waking to a hiker hovering over me asking about the nearest bear box location. Damn you!  This was the same fellow who yesterday had sauntered into Pear Lake with a Dominos Pizza box strapped to his pack.  The Pear Lake pit toilets are welcome and offer convenience, but the stench of sawdust and sewage should direct you elsewhere.  Yes, Pear Lake is a circus. But a beautiful circus.  Minus the clowns.

So! You have arrived at Pear Lake!  What next? Leave!  Leave quickly! Did you bring map and compass?  Great! They are helpful. You are now going off trail.

There is a ridge due North East of Pear Lake.  Head for that ridge.  You can go for the ridge’s  high or low point  (the latter directly above the Pear Lake ranger hut).  High or low    doesn’t matter.  Pick your way through the inclined granite scrabble to access the ridge. It is neither dangerous nor difficult.   Ok, you reached the ridge!  Pour yourself a drink. There is a meadow below.  Head for the meadow, or, as Bambi says, “The Meadow!”  Skirt the meadow on the right (south).  Over the next 1.5 miles, generally head North East amidst the trees. The trees grow more and more sparse, and the direction is generally obvious.  You are zigging south and then will zag a bit north.  

Soon you can appreciate the western edge of Tableland Meadows.  The terrain opens, the trees thin, and a prominent mound presents itself (the “10,695 foot” prominence noted on the 1980 Wilderness Press Triple Divide Peak map).  South of the mound is two-parted Topaz Lake.  You can access the lake via the mound’s left (west) or right (east).  Topaz Lake is like Montana – Big Sky!  There are 360 degree views ideal for star gazing and campsites on the southern shore. An evening alpine glow hike skirting the lake’s circumference will provide undying memories. 

Accessing Arnot Lake (Lake 11,200 feet) from Topaz Lake is straightforward.  If leaving Topaz Lake, connect your compass with the upper Big Bird Lakes to the East – there are two.  You will be heading toward the highest point of the 1.25 mile distant ridge.  There are other small tarns in the area.  Difficulties? Don’t give up! You need to find Arnot Lake.  Drop your packs.  Explore.  Be patient.  Your inclination will be to head low.  Don’t. Stay high.  If accessing Arnot Lake from Tableland Meadows, again, set your compass for the two upper Big Bird Lakes.  As you ascend, pick your way through the granite.    There is a false ridge.  Darn it!  .75 miles beyond the false ridge is the real ridge. Again, stay for the high point.  Moose Lake is soon visible to your right (South).  There is an optical illusion here – Moose Lake appears to be tilted!   Perhaps it is!  Arnot Lake, though not immediately obvious, is quite accessible.  If you see many granite slabs oriented like dinner plates, you are generally in the correct location. 

Wrinkles:

A ranger told us that Arnot Lake to Moose Lake is relatively easy – stay at a level elevavation to access.

Moose Lake to Pear Lake is an oft-used route – not technical, but patience is required to find the non-technical route.

Happy trekking!  And if you need information on the ideal shoe lace type for backpacking, please go to the online forums!