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Wednesday, February 7, 2024
Saturday, September 18, 2021
Sequoia National Park: Pear Lake to Tableland’s Lake 11,200
In search of off-trail
solitude, open space and second-to-none views?
This jaunt in the Southern Sierra fits the bill. The goal is Lake 11,200, a tiny lake (or
massive tarn?) embedded in a ridge overlooking Upper Big Bird Lakes, with
sweeping views (North to South, or left to right) of Mt. Francis Farquhar,
Northguard Peak, Mt. Brewer, Southguard Peak, Thunder Mountain, Table Mountain,
Midway Mountain, Milestone Mountain, Triple Divide Peak, and the amiable but
semi-brooding Kaweah Peaks.
Foregrounding
the aforementioned peaks is Glacier Ridge, possibly the least visited place in
the Sierra Nevada. Phil Arnot, author of
“High Sierra – John Muir’s Range of Light”, the bible for backpackers who avoid
online backpacker forums – unless, of course, one needs to know the optimal
tortilla circumference for bear canisters -- describes Glacier Ridge as
“untrailed, untraveled and almost entirely unadulterated.” (When I look at Glacier Ridge I’m reminded of
my father’s famous “I like people. I
just don’t like being around them!”).
Lake 11,200
affords campsites with views of the Great Western Divide (in its
entirety!). Take your pick on the east
side. The water is clean, swimmable and
algae free. There are numerous natural
shelters in the rocks, though a thunder storm may forge a smidge of
consternation. (Thunder and Lightning? Leave now!). The
lake (heretofore designated “Arnot Lake”) is an ideal multi-night spot,
allowing day-trip exploration of Big Bird Lake, Moose Lake and all of the
Tablelands.
Accessing Arnot
Lake from Wolverton can be done in one day, but only if you are stupid. I suggest 2 days to
cover the 10 miles and 3,700 foot gain, from Wolverton. On day 1, get yourself to Pear Lake,
beautifully situated below Alta Peak. It
is an outpost for innumerable backpackers.
Most spend their time at Pear Lake and go no further. While there, they discuss tortilla size radius and
other important matters addressed in online forums. My last Pear Lake foray included
shushing backpackers who were blasting music during alpine glow, and waking to
a hiker hovering over me asking about the nearest bear box location. Damn you! This was the same fellow who yesterday had
sauntered into Pear Lake with a Dominos Pizza box strapped to his pack. The Pear Lake pit toilets are welcome and
offer convenience, but the stench of sawdust and sewage should direct you
elsewhere. Yes, Pear Lake is a circus.
But a beautiful circus. Minus the
clowns.
So! You have
arrived at Pear Lake! What next?
Leave! Leave quickly! Did you bring map
and compass? Great! They are helpful.
You are now going off trail.
There is a ridge
due North East of Pear Lake. Head for
that ridge. You can go for the ridge’s high or low point (the latter directly above the Pear Lake ranger
hut). High or low doesn’t matter. Pick your way through the inclined granite scrabble to access the ridge. It is neither dangerous nor difficult. Ok,
you reached the ridge! Pour yourself a
drink. There is a meadow below. Head for
the meadow, or, as Bambi says, “The Meadow!”
Skirt the meadow on the right (south).
Over the next 1.5 miles, generally head North East amidst the trees. The
trees grow more and more sparse, and the direction is generally obvious. You are zigging south and then will zag a bit
north.
Soon you can
appreciate the western edge of Tableland Meadows. The terrain opens, the trees thin, and a
prominent mound presents itself (the “10,695 foot” prominence noted on the 1980
Wilderness Press Triple Divide Peak map).
South of the mound is two-parted Topaz Lake. You can access the lake via the mound’s left
(west) or right (east). Topaz Lake is
like Montana – Big Sky! There are 360
degree views ideal for star gazing and campsites on the southern shore. An
evening alpine glow hike skirting the lake’s circumference will provide undying
memories.
Accessing Arnot
Lake (Lake 11,200 feet) from Topaz Lake is straightforward. If leaving Topaz Lake, connect your compass
with the upper Big Bird Lakes to the East – there are two. You will be heading toward the highest point
of the 1.25 mile distant ridge. There
are other small tarns in the area. Difficulties?
Don’t give up! You need to find Arnot Lake.
Drop your packs. Explore. Be patient.
Your inclination will be to head low.
Don’t. Stay high. If accessing
Arnot Lake from Tableland Meadows, again, set your compass for the two upper
Big Bird Lakes. As you ascend, pick your
way through the granite. There is a
false ridge. Darn it! .75 miles beyond the false ridge is the real
ridge. Again, stay for the high point.
Moose Lake is soon visible to your right (South). There is an optical illusion here – Moose
Lake appears to be tilted! Perhaps it
is! Arnot Lake, though not immediately
obvious, is quite accessible. If you see
many granite slabs oriented like dinner plates, you are generally in the
correct location.
Wrinkles:
A ranger told us
that Arnot Lake to Moose Lake is relatively easy – stay at a level elevavation to access.
Moose Lake to
Pear Lake is an oft-used route – not technical, but patience is required to
find the non-technical route.
Happy
trekking! And if you need information on
the ideal shoe lace type for backpacking, please go to the online forums!
Tuesday, July 25, 2017
Passing Thoughts
Yesterday I embraced this song without words while sitting on that Tahoe beach. The boastful cumulonimbi's surface, not unlike popcorn, seemed to breathe. Expansion and contraction. It lingered and threatened, but in the late afternoon it became nothing more than a passing thought, leaving an empty blue stage for the setting sun.
Afterwards, we ate pizza and recollected the game of charades where, in response to the clues, the participants guessed The Jar Leg when the solution was The Martian.
Saturday, November 5, 2011
Amelia Earhart Peak over Ireland Lake
09/09/2011
My sister, Celerina, and I enjoyed lunch from this vista earlier this year. Ireland Lake is off trail in a relatively obscure part of Yosemite. Lunch consisted of an inch of Gallo Salami, 2 cheese sticks, a handful of plain M and M's and a liter of water. Oh, and one flour tortilla.
On a totally unrelated note, it was noted that one of my son's friends broke up with his girlfriend. "Why did they break up?" I asked, to which H, my youngest, replied, "Well, Dad. He simply said 'We're freshmen, so we both know this isn't going to last anymore than 6 weeks. So let's break up now and just get it over with.' "
Tuesday, June 21, 2011
The Geyser Grill
Signage in the Geyser Grill, a burger joint in West Yellowstone, Montana (our 14 year old son failed to see the humor).
Menu items in the restaurant included antelope burgers and elk chili. I ordered a bison burger and developed a hump in my upper back after eating it.
I spent the entire week saying "Yosemite" when I meant "Yellowstone." More to follow...
Monday, March 7, 2011
Innies and Outies
Sunday, February 6, 2011
Of Snowmen Dreams and Stranger Things
I flicked on the nightstand light. I frantically pulled out the drawer, seeking my 3 x 5 cards which I kept in my nightstand for such occasions. The drawer crashed to the floor. I found the cards and began scribbling on each one. In my unrestrained excitement, some of the cards flew out of my hands like I was performing a Vegas card trick. My brain was ripe like a soft persimmon losing hold of its branch. I needed to record the images and words spinning around in my head before they were lost forever. Something about the dream had triggered a cascade of unexpected but most welcome brilliance. Eventually, without realizing how or when, I succumbed to sleep's embrace.
I awoke at 9 AM exhausted and headachey. For migraineurs like myself, disrupted sleep can be lethal, a sure migraine trigger (like going to Cirque de Soleil on a hot Saturday afternoon). I cracked my neck by moving it like Stevie Wonder does when he sings, and my spine made a sound like breakfast cereal. I stuck my thumb into my right eye and pushed hard. That always helps. Suddenly, though, the 3 by 5 cards caught my attention. They were scattered over my bedspread. I gathered them. Oh, yes, I remembered. The cards! I read each one...
S'mores
I scratched my head. S'mores? I closed my eyes and ventured into the fogginess of my recent dream. In a moment, all became clear, like finding Waldo. The snowmen! Picture several snowmen sitting around a campfire. They are smiling and telling campfire stories. One of the snowmen plays a guitar. They roast marshmallows over the fire. The marshmallow sticks, however, are about 30 feet long, thereby keeping the snowmen a safe distance from the fire's heat.
This was my key to early retirement. My rewards would come soon enough. I only had to wait for the replies...